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Michelin Star Chef & Author, Anita Lo

Hi Anita! Would you mind introducing yourself? (where you are from/grew up, what your childhood was like, where you went to college, what you studied, etc.)

I am originally from Michigan, specifically a suburb of Detroit called Birmingham.  My parents were big foodies and loved to travel. Although Birmingham was pretty monochromatic, my parents ensured that our household was multicultural.  My parents worked full-time, so I grew up under the care of nannies from all around the world.  The one that stayed the longest was Hungarian. In college, I took my love of travel and applied it to my major - French - and studied abroad in Paris. It was during this time that I fell into the food industry when I ended up attending a local cooking school (Columbia CC ‘88). When I graduated, I found work at French restaurants (such as Bouley and Chanterelle), enabling me to keep up my French language skills while pursuing my love of cooking.

Anita Lo is a French-trained chef and cookbook author (Cooking Without Borders and award-winning SoLo, a Modern Cookbook for a Party of One) based in New York City. **She is best known for her work at contemporary American fine dining restaurant Annisa, which she owned and operated for 17 years in the West Village. During this time, Annisa received a three star rating from The New York Times and a coveted Michelin Star among other accolades.  Lo was the first female chef to collaborate for a State Dinner at the White House (under the Obama Administration).  She has appeared on numerous television shows and films, including Top Chef Masters, Iron Chef America and The Heat.  Today, Lo works with the Tour De Forks as an international culinary tour host and was recently awarded the Order of Agricultural Merit from the French government.

What are some of the challenges you have faced within your culinary arts experience?

What isn’t challenging about the restaurant business? As a restaurant owner, you often feel like your job is to put out fires. The margins are razor thin, the clientele wants the new hottest thing at all times, there are labor shortages…. it is also somewhat of a "boys club". Women make far less than their male counterparts and often face sexual harassment and racism in the workplace. That being said, this industry picks you.  It's an obsession; it can be very rewarding if you are the right person for the job.

What is the biggest lesson you have learned within your career? What has been the most memorable moment of your career?

That's a hard one... I have learned so many lessons.  If I had to pick one, it would be learning to manage others and be a leader.  My biggest takeaway was that you have to give respect to get respect.

I have also had so many great experiences as a chef, but cooking at the White House under the Obama Administration was one of the most memorable for me.

Do you have a favorite recipe, and would you be able to share it with us?

I couldn't choose a favorite recipe, but I love this one, which I picked up on my travels with Tour De Forks in Mexico.  You can also substitute hard boiled eggs for the chicken to make it more "classic".

Papadzules with Chicken

Ingredients:

  • 1.5 c. Masa harina

  • 1 c. Hot Water

  • 1 Tbsp. Olive oil

  • salt

  • 1 chicken breast, bone in

  • salt and pepper

  • 1 sprig epazote (substitute pinch mexican oregano and three sprigs cilantro)

  • 1 slice white or yellow onion

  • 1 c. Pumpkin seeds

  • 5 roma tomatoes

  • 1/2 small red onion

  • 1 small banana pepper or hot hungarian wax pepper

  • 2 Tbsp. Olive oil

  • salt and pepper to taste

Method:

Make the tortillas (or substitute storebought):  Mix the masa harina and salt together in a bowl, then stir in the olive oil and the hot water. Add more hot water as necessary to form a ball.  Knead until smooth.  Cover with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes before using.

Poach the chicken: Season the chicken with salt and pepper on both sides and place in a pot along with the epazote and the onion.  Cover with water and bring to a boil.  Skim, turn to a simmer, and cook 35 minutes until tender.  Remove chicken to a plate and strain the stock for later use.  When chicken is cool enough to handle, shred.  Taste and re-season with salt and pepper if necessary.  Keep warm.

Make the pumpkin seed sauce:  Place the pumpkin seeds in a dry saute and pan and on medium high heat cook until popped and lightly toasted.  Transfer all but two Tablespoons (save for garnish) to a food processor and run until it forms a clay like paste.

Make the tomato sauce: Remove the "belly buttons" of the tomatoes and wrap individually in tin foil.  Place this directly into the flames of your burners and char on all sides.  Do the same with the onion.  Char the banana pepper directly in the flames without wrapping, then place in a ziplock bag to steam or in a bowl covered.  Peel the tomatoes and peel, de-stem and de-seed the banana pepper.  Cut a few slices of the pepper and set aside.  Roughly chop the remainder along with the tomato and onion.  Heat the olive oil in a pot and add the vegetables.  Stir and cook until reduced and thickened, then puree using a hand blender.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Keep warm.

Make the tortillas: Heat a cast iron saute pan on high.  Roll the masa dough into 2-inch round balls, flatten using a tortilla press (lined with two sheets of plastic) and press to form 6 inch round tortillas.  Cook in the dry hot cast iron pan until browned or lightly blackened in spots, then turn and finish.  Hold in a towel until you’ve used all the dough.

To finish: Place the pumpkin seed sauce in a shallow pan and dilute with the chicken stock until desired consistency.  Bring to a boil, adding more stock as necessary.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.